RomaPolacchi

Until May 18th, the Museo Palazzo Venezia (via del Plebiscito 118) is holding an exhibition of the Renaissance Venetian painter, Sebastiano Luciani, known as "del Piombo." Rival to Michelangelo and Raphael, del Piombo spent many of his most productive years in Rome and the city is adorned with many of his works. While you are at the Palazzo Venezia, be sure to visit the "Secret Garden" of Pope Paul II.

Not far from the Campo dei Fiori and Largo Argentina is a restaurant that specializes in traditional Roman fare-and teaches anyone willing to learn how to make it! Renato e Luisa (Via dei Barbieri 25) is run by Renato Astrologo, a native Roman who learned the meat business from his butcher father. Renato has taken many of the old-fashioned Roman recipes and lightened them up for today's lifestyle. You can find out how to do the same on your next visit to Rome by emailing him at info@renatoeluisa.it. See a recent article in Tastes of Italia magazine for a personal account of the cooking lessons.

As you may be aware, driving in Italy is not for the faint-hearted. Unless you are going to a villa in Tuscany or to the remote countryside, you should probably avoid cars altogether. You will certainly not want a car in Rome-there is nowhere to park it and you can't even drive in the historic center without a special residential permit. Stick to trains. The Italian government has an extensive website for its train system, Trenitalia . Here you can purchase tickets, find up-to-date schedules (that may or may not correspond to when the trains actually arrive and depart!), and special deals. Currently Trenitalia is focusing on Smart Price , a promotion offering tickets around Europe starting at 15 Euros. Buon Viaggio !

The Casa Howard Guest House in Rome is a 10 room hotel in two locations near the Spanish Steps. The hotel is really more like a private residence, decorated with antiques and family heirlooms. Each location has a Turkish Hammam (bath) to help you wash off the day upon your return from sightseeing. 3 of the rooms at the Via Capo Le Case location do not have en-suite bathrooms (the White, Blue and Chinese rooms) but your bathroom is just next to your room and is private, much like in a real residence. The room rates start at 180 Euros in the low season and 220 in the high season. The hotel is part of the Chic Retreats group which specializes in luxurious boutique hotels with less than 30 rooms.

Ian Fisher, the chief of the New York Times bureau in Rome, has a wonderful article on the attractions of the Eternal City at night . He suggests after-hours Vatican tours, outdoor musical performances, restaurants with a view of the ruins, and must-see piazzas and fountains illuminated at night. The Modern Traveler has always been a firm advocate of Rome after dark, especially in the warmer months. There truly is something magical about the gentle summer air and the golden glow of the light in the piazzas.

The Via Appia, the ancient road leading from Rome to Brinidisi, is lined with tombs, villas and all sorts of archaeological attractions. But modern Romans seem to be more interested in exploiting the ruins to make money than preserving them for posterity. Ruins have been turned into restaurants and banquet halls and are subject to vandalism on a nightly basis. Yet the Via Appia is a national park, protected by Italian laws, and truly a fascinating escape for the visitor. There are ancient tombs, catacombs, villas (like the Villa of the Quintili, pictured) and bath complexes lining the road in a park-like setting. See a recent New York Times article to read more about the issues facing this valuable historical resource.

Dozens of articles in the past few weeks have highlighted the trouble that Italy's airline, Alitalia, is facing. Because the EU has ruled that governments can no longer fund private airlines, Italy has been forced to pull its funding from Alitalia. This has left Alitalia with not nearly enough cash to run for more than a few more weeks. The newly reelected Prime Minister, Silvio Berlusconi, has vowed that he will make saving Alitalia a priority, but until another company comes along to bail them out, you should definitely avoid making any reservations on Alitalia. See Budget Travel for some tips on making the most of your reservation if you already have booked with Alitalia for this summer.