RomaPolacchi

As part of Traveler Magazine's Places of a Lifetime series, National Geographic has designed three detailed and fascinating walks in Rome. The walks are illustrated by maps and accompanied by pertinent information about what you will see and why it is important. The three walks are the Via Appia Antica , the Via Veneto district , and the historic sites in the heart of Rome . The website also includes what to wear in Rome, restaurant, hotel and shopping recommendations , and even books and music to get you started on your trip before you get there.

As part of the Estate Romana festivities, a free jazz festival is taking place from July 10 through August 10 at the Ristorante Giuda Ballerino near Largo Appio Claudio (Via Marco Valerio Corvo 135). The festival is kicked off by Pasquale Iannarella on saxophone. Call 06/71076070 for more information.

As you journey around the city, you may notice a high brick wall in several areas, particularly if you are headed south by means of the Appian Way. This wall was begun in the 3rd century CE by the Emperor Aurelian. You can visit a museum dedicated to the study of these walls at the Porta San Sebastiano , the gate from which the Via Appia Antica leaves the city. The exhibit itself includes rooms which were once occupied by Ettore Muti, one of Mussolini's highest-ranking officials, and some mosaics from the Fascist period are still extant. With admission to the museum you can also access the ramparts of the walls. Here you will find a wonderful view of the city, the surrounding hills (Castelli Romani) and the Via Appia. It's a nice, cheap (3 Euros) diversion on your way to visit the catacombs at San Callisto or Santa Domitilla.

The Via Appia, the ancient road leading from Rome to Brinidisi, is lined with tombs, villas and all sorts of archaeological attractions. But modern Romans seem to be more interested in exploiting the ruins to make money than preserving them for posterity. Ruins have been turned into restaurants and banquet halls and are subject to vandalism on a nightly basis. Yet the Via Appia is a national park, protected by Italian laws, and truly a fascinating escape for the visitor. There are ancient tombs, catacombs, villas (like the Villa of the Quintili, pictured) and bath complexes lining the road in a park-like setting. See a recent New York Times article to read more about the issues facing this valuable historical resource.

Today in the New York Times Travel section is a short article on the sights and tastes of the Via Appia (Appian Way). The Via Appia was the major road out of Ancient Rome leading to points south. Today you can visit catacombs, ancient tombs (like the tomb of Cecilia Metella, pictured), good restaurants and even a relatively well preserved circus (ancient racetrack). You'll avoid the crowds of the center of Rome as you walk along the ancient paving stones which still show the ruts from Roman chariots and carts. Go on Sundays when the road is closed to automobiles and scooters.