RomaPolacchi

Andrew McCarthy, one of my teenage crushes (okay, maybe an adult crush too) now writes occasionally for National Geographic Traveler . His most recent article, Three Faces of Rome , chronicles a visit to Rome during which he stays in three different neighborhoods. He starts with serious luxury at the Hotel Hassler and ends with authentic Rome in an apartment in Trastever e. McCarthy is my kind of traveler-his restaurant and cafe experiences are exactly what I look for when I visit Rome. He also has a great list of apartment rental resources. I will definitely be looking into them for my next visit!

For you beer aficionados who will be in Italy on June 20th, Trastevere's Bir e Fud is planning a tour of Opperbacco di Notaresco, an artisanal brewery near Teramo in Abruzzo . For 20 Euros you will get a tour and beer tasting at the brewery along with a picnic lunch consisting of delicious antipasti. Make reservations through Bir e Fud by calling 39.06.5561677. Buon Apetito!

Ristorante Romolo nel Giardino di Raffaello e della Fornarina , also known as Romolo , is the perfect setting for a romantic dinner in Trastevere. The restaurant, which serves typical Roman cuisine, was opened in 1950 and is located in the house and garden that supposedly belonged to Raphael's mistress, the daughter of a baker ( il forno ). While Raphael was working on the nearby Villa Farnesina , he would steal away to meet his lover and model, Margherita Luti. You won't find this restaurant and its very pretty garden in many of the tourist books (and hopefully you won't find many tourists either). Via di Porta Settimiana 8. Tel.065818284.

See Kate Appleton's "First Report" upon her return from Rome. Many Budget Travel readers asked questions about lodging, transport, and dining. Her answers are here, along with many readers' comments. Read all about her pasta all'amatriciana at Da Augusto in Trastevere -a simple but real Roman experience.

Rome is filled with masterpieces. But the Villa Farnesina is without a doubt one of the jewels in Rome's crown. Built in the 16th century for Agostino Chigi, one of Italy's richest and most influential bankers, the Villa boasts frescoes by the master Raphael and other famous Renaissance painters del Sebastiano del Piombo and Baldassare Peruzzi. Located on the western bank of the Tiber in Trastevere , the Villa is in what was once considered the suburbs of Rome but is now the heart of modern Rome's bohemian quarter. The famous Sala della Galatea (pictured) and Logge delle Cupid and Psyche of Raphael have inspired countless artists for centuries and continue to do so today. The luxurious and intimate setting of the Villa will bring you closer to the artists' works than you have ever been and truly make you feel as if you are Italian nobility yourself. The Villa is open from 9:00 am to 1:00 pm every day except Sundays and holidays, so get there early to soak in the ma...

Popular Trastevere watering hole Bir e Fud is having a beer tasting event on Wednesday, March 4th at 7:00 pm. Fantome is a Belgian beer from the town of Soy and is known in by those "in the know" for its seasonally changing ingredients and quirky brewer, Dany Prignon. 4 of his beers will be on tap for the occasion. If you want to be a part of the tasting, be sure to make a reservation by Tuesday as these events are always sold out! Email mirkocaretta@gmail.com or call 001.39.06.5561677.

Rome's mayor, Gianni Alemanno, has just issued a city-wide ban on selling alcohol "to-go" after 9 pm (supermarkets included!) and restrictions on restaurants and clubs after 2 am. A recent stabbing of a tourist in Campo dei Fiori prompted the decision which many residents had been requesting for years. It seems that not everyone in Rome is interested in staying up all night with a bottle of wine in the piazzas and narrow alleyways of Trastevere ! Don't worry, you can still purchase alcohol to go-just do it before 9 pm.

Budget Travel has some great suggestions for saving money in Rome (and in many other expensive cities). They suggest using public transportation, refilling your water bottles in the fountains (the water in Rome is pristine!) and eating pizza by the slice. 10Best.com has some great suggestions for pizzerias, many of them in Trastevere.

Mario Batali's famous Manhattan restaurant, Babbo , is well-known not only for its terrific food, but also for its impeccable wine selection. That wine selection is thanks to David Lynch , Babbo's wine director. Lynch is an expert on Italian wines and naturally has a few favorite wine bars to visit in Rome. He includes Cul de Sac , the quintessential enoteca just off the Piazza Navona . But he recommends several more wine bars in almost every neighborhood in Rome. In the Prati (north of the Vatican) he touts Del Frate not only for its wines but also for its cheese selection. In Trastevere , trendy Ferrara is the place to visit for an "encyclopedic" wine list. If you are looking for something a little more low-key, try L'Angolo Divino just off Campo dei Fiori . Salud!

Just across from the Porta San Pancrazio on the Gianicolo is Antico Arco , a little jewel of a restaurant. Four unique dining rooms in an historical building offer Roman cuisine with a little bit of Calabria, Sicily and Le Marche thrown in. One of their Roman specialties is pasta all'Amatriciana with pancetta from the Marche region. The restaurant is frequented by members of the American Academy in Rome , which is just around the corner. Antico Arco's wine bar is a lovely place to wait for your table, but be sure to make a reservation as it does get crowded. The restaurant is closed on Sundays. Piazzale Aurelio 7 , Tel.065815274.

On November 3 at 10:00 am the Food Network will air Molto Mario: Trastevere on a Sunday . Join Mario Batali in Rome for a gastronomic stroll through one of Rome's most interesting neighborhoods-and learn how to prepare some of Rome's most interesting dishes. Fried zucchini blossoms are destined to make an appearance. If you can't wait for the show to try the recipes, see the Food Network for a preview.

Nighttime is the most romantic time in Rome. The sounds of traffic are muted, the dusk hides any debris or graffiti that the harsh sunlight illuminates, the streetlights cast a warm glow over the cobblestones, and the busloads of tourists have gone back to their hotels. So what should you and your loved one do with yourselves? Well, after you have a romantic dinner there are a myriad of options. For music lovers, in summer you can head to the Baths of Caracalla for an outdoor opera performance. Aida is always a favorite! In other seasons, the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma always has something spectacular going on. If opera is not your preference, head to the Theater of Marcellus for classical music in the ruins of the ancient theater (through the end of September). While you are in the vicinity of the theater, be sure to take a stroll through the Jewish Ghetto -at night it is so charming. Don't miss the Fontana della Tartarughe in Piazza Mattei. Also near the theater is the...

If you are on your honeymoon or you are just in the mood for romance, you will find unlimited opportunities for charming walks in Rome. The walk from the Galleria Borghese to the Pincio , one of the most famous strolls in Rome, should be done in time to watch the sun go down over St. Peter's (pictured). For you archaeology buffs, a walk on the Palatine Hill will take you out of the crowds and into shady paths with lovely views of the Forum (and some interesting ruins-like the house of the Emperor Augustus- as well). An evening passegiata in Trastevere will inspire you to move to Rome and become a starving artist. Don't miss the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere and its namesake church, whose 12th century Byzantine mosaics are illuminated at night. If your legs are up to it, head up to Piazzale Garibaldi on the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) for the best view of Rome. Don't forget to linger by the Fontana dell'Acqua Paola. And last, if you need to get out of the hustle...

If you plan to honeymoon in Rome, there are a few restaurants that you must explore. For a splurge, try L'altro Mastai near Piazza Navona . The chef was trained at the highly acclaimed La Pergola (at the Rome Cavalieri Hilton ) and the tasting menu, ambience and service will make you swoon. For a more picturesque experience, Giggeto al Portico d'Ottavia in the Jewish Ghetto brings you face to face with the ruins of the Theater of Marcellus and the Portico Octavia while you enjoy traditional Roman-Jewish fare. If you prefer a more Bohemian atmosphere, try Sabatini in Piazza Santa Maria (pictured) in Trastevere . Not exactly a quiet romantic spot, but the heady combination of good food, people watching and the view of the piazza and its namesake 12th century church will certainly put the Roman into your romance. Readers: What's your favorite romantic restaurant in Rome?

Years ago when the Modern Traveler was a student in Rome, Trastevere nightlife was irresistible. Today the pubs and clubs that lured MT in the past are still attracting expatriates and locals. The tiny Stardust Jazz Bar on Vicolo dei Renzi satisfies any cravings you may have for live jazz and cocktails. Upstairs you can have tea during the day (and bagels on the weekends!). Downstairs at night is where the live jazz gets heavy-and the rock and reggae! Readers: Where can you hear the best jazz in Rome?

The Almost Corner Bookstore in Trastevere (Via del Moro 45) is the place to pick up English language novels, guidebooks and publications. The people working at the store are so helpful and ready to have a friendly chat. For used books in English and other languages, visit the Open Door Bookshop on Via della Lungaretta 23 on the other side of the Viale Trastevere (pictured). The atmosphere is everything you'd expect of a used bookstore-and even more so because it's in Rome!

New York Times writer, Matt Gross ("The Frugal Traveler") visits Rome this week on his Grand Tour of Europe. In his quest to save Euros, Matt stayed in a convent, used public transportation, visited (free) churches that are famous for their art, and found that it is easy to feast like a king in Rome on a budget. He spends a great deal of time in Trastevere, the Modern Traveler's favorite Roman neighborhood. See his article for the details of his adventures and a great video documenting his stay in Rome.

It may seem impossible, but you could get tired of the endless array of wine in Italy. When this happens, visit Bir & Fud in Trastevere (Via Benedetta 23), a pub that serves over 100 brands of artisanal Italian beers. The "fud" is actually typical of a high-end pizzeria (delicious), but the "bir" will make you rave. Visit their blog -unfortunately only in Italian-to find out more about events going on at the pub and beers they are enjoying. You can also purchase many of the beers at their bottega , located at Via Luca Valerio in the Marconi neighborhood south of Trastevere.

April's Town and Country Magazine has an article on the revitalization of Rome's heretofore unknown neighborhoods. The restoration and cultural projects begun to celebrate the Great Jubilee year at the Vatican 8 years ago and the election of Walter Veltroni as mayor have inaugurated a new era in cultural expansion and development. Neighborhoods like Testaccio , Trastevere and the Via Giulia (pictured) now attract visitors who used to confine their sightseeing to the Centro Storico. New hotels, restaurants, shopping and galleries have opened in central and peripheral neighborhoods alike. As Georgia Spogli, the wife of the US ambassador to Italy puts it, "People used to go to Paris; now they come to Rome." Unfortunately, the article is not available on-line, but stay tuned for recommendations from the magazine via Modern Traveler.

In the middle of the Tiber River is an island once home to a temple to the god of healing, Asklepios. Today the island still is place of medicine, housing a hospital since the 16th century. The relics of Saint Bartholomew who was skinned alive and later became the patron saint of sufferers of skin diseases are actually buried on the island in a church (pictured at right) named for him. The island is more than just a hospital and a church, however. During summer nights there is a cafe with lively music and sometimes a film festival set up on the north end of the island which could provide a diversion on your way to and from Trastevere . There is also a very good restaurant called Sora Lella on the island at Via Ponte Quattro Capi #16.