RomaPolacchi

The Wall Street Journal highlights the monastery Abbazia San Pietro in Valle in Umbria . The monastery is refashioned into a rustically simple hotel where you can relax and soak in the gorgeous Italian countryside. While you are there you can explore the ruins of the abandoned medieval village Umbriano , just a short walk away. The monastery also has an exquisite restaurant, Il Cantico , so even if you are not staying the night, be sure to stay for dinner.

A recent ruling in Rome has banned all snacking near major monuments like the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon! If you are caught dribbling your gelato on something famous, be prepared to pay a fine of about $80. The ban is in effect until October, when the tourists go home. Yet another reason to visit Rome after the high season!

The Church of Santa Susana in Rome maintains an extensive list of convents that accommodate overnight visitors. A convent stay, while very cheap (think 40 euros for a double room) and no doubt picturesque, is not for the luxury traveler. Often there is a curfew and bathrooms are down the hall. But the locations are some of the best in Rome (like the Casa Santa Brigida in the Piazza Farnese, pictured) and obviously the price can't be beat. Visit the Church of Santa Susana website to find the convent that's right for you-and make sure you ask the important questions, like "Is there a curfew?" before you book!

Airfare to Rome drops dramatically in price in September. From New York's JFK you can catch a flight for $735 on Iberian Airlines, leaving on September 10 and returning the 16 th . In October (leaving the 29 th , returning the 12 th of November) the fares are reduced even more to $719 (also on Iberian Airlines ). Autumn is a great time to visit the Eternal City-fewer crowds and glorious weather. The real Romans will have returned from their summer vacations, making your experience even more authentic.

It is possible to enjoy the works of the great master Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (the other Michelangelo) without paying museum entrance fees. Three churches house several of the painters works and all are free to visitors. At Santa Maria del Popolo (in Piazza del Popolo ) you can see The Crucifixion of St. Peter and The Conversion of St. Paul. The Church of San Luigi dei Francesi , near Piazza Navona , has three Caravaggios dedicated to St. Matthew. Also next to Piazza Navona is the church of Sant'Augostino whose facade is made of travertine from the Colosseum. Inside you can see the Madonna of the Pilgrims (pictured) , which is remarkable for its realistic portrayal of common people. Caravaggio is known for his heightened use of shadows and light ( chiaroscuro ) and was once a pupil of the great Venetian painter, Titian. At one point, Caravaggio was the most renowned painter in Rome.

As part of the Estate Romana festivities, a free jazz festival is taking place from July 10 through August 10 at the Ristorante Giuda Ballerino near Largo Appio Claudio (Via Marco Valerio Corvo 135). The festival is kicked off by Pasquale Iannarella on saxophone. Call 06/71076070 for more information.

The print version of National Geographic Traveler has a fantastic article on Rome this month. While the full article in not available on-line, their website does have some fun Roman features that will help you plan your trip and save money. Free Rome details various monuments, sites, entertainment and even food that costs niente. Included in the extensive lists are walking tours of the Pantheon and St. Peter's Basilica , free drinks and/or appetizers at various restaurants and festivals such as Estate Romana and the Isola del Cinema film festival on the Tiber Island. There's also a slide show to get you excited about your trip!

One of Rome's most elegant streets, the Via Giulia, is celebrating its 500th birthday this summer. The street, built by Pope Julius II, was originally part of a building program around the Vatican. The street runs almost parallel to the Tiber River for a spell, but does not have the traffic of the Lungotevere, the thoroughfare which brings traffic north along the river. The Via Giulia is lined with churches and palazzos-one even belonging to the Medici family. Many of these churches and palazzos, usually closed to the public, will open this summer in celebration of the quincentenary. See the website devoted to the events (unfortunately only in Italian) or read more about the sights on the Via Giulia in a recent New York Times article.

For Roman architecture buffs, there is no better place to experience the excellence of Roman engineering than the Mausoleum of Costanza on the Via Nomentana. The circular temple, built for the emperor Constantine's daughters and later turned into a church, contains a spectacular dome and exquisite mosaics from the 4th century CE. Nearby is the Church of Sant'Agnese which contains extensive catacombs. The mausoleum and catacombs are open daily 9-12 and 2-6, closed Mondays and Sunday and holiday mornings. Be sure to call ahead just in case!