RomaPolacchi

Slightly removed from the hustle and bustle of the historic center are a group of four hotels, The Aventino San Anselmo Hotels on the Aventine Hill. All four hotels, Hotel San Anselmo , Hotel Villa San Pio , Hotel Aventino (pictured), and Hotel Villa San Lorenzo Maria (located close to Termini, Rome's train station) were once private residences and have all been redecorated and refurbished in a modern baroque style within the last ten years. Rates start at 120 Euros for a double room (low season) and each room has a private bath. The hotels all have beautiful gardens and public areas and are located within walking distance of the Colosseum, Baths of Caracalla, and the Circus Maximus. These properties are a bit off the beaten path, but in quiet surroundings that will make you forget that you are in the middle of the one of Europe's most hectic cities.

Food in Rome is diverse, exciting, and can actually be had for a decent price, even in the most popular areas. If you are in Piazza di Spagna and are in the mood for a light lunch, head over to Ristorante alla Rampa (Piazza Mignanelli 18) for an array of antipasti choices such as fried zucchini flowers and prosciutto with melon. A large plate of assorted antipasti can be had for 9 Euros. Add a small bottle of wine and your meal (of appetizers) will be complete. Make sure you go early in the day, as it tends to fill up in the early evening. Another choice for antipasti is L'Orso 80 (Via dell'Orso 33 near Piazza Navona).

New York Times writer, Matt Gross ("The Frugal Traveler") visits Rome this week on his Grand Tour of Europe. In his quest to save Euros, Matt stayed in a convent, used public transportation, visited (free) churches that are famous for their art, and found that it is easy to feast like a king in Rome on a budget. He spends a great deal of time in Trastevere, the Modern Traveler's favorite Roman neighborhood. See his article for the details of his adventures and a great video documenting his stay in Rome.

In the "Ask Travel and Leisure" section of the magazine's July 2008 issue, a reader wants to know where the best gelato in Rome is. Well, we all know that pretty much anywhere in Italy has great gelato. But some places have a serious following. Travel and Leisure recommends (based on food expert Faith Willinger's picks) Il Gelato di San Crispino located at the Basilica di San Giovanni (56 Via Acaia) and also near the Trevi Fountain (42 Via della Panetteria). For tartufo, a chocolate gelato masterpiece, head to Tre Scalini in Piazza Navona (#30-35).

Every streetcorner in Rome offers a splendid view-but some spots are definitely more picturesque than others. What could be more lovely than to dine, al fresco, with a view of the most famous site in the ancient world? The restaurant at the Hotel Forum sits high atop the roof and looks out over the Roman Forum with the Colosseum to your left and the Capitoline Hill to your right. During the day you can watch the world go by-and at night you'll be captivated by the magic of the empty Forum. Be sure to make reservations for dinner. The hotel is located at Via Tor de' Conti 25-30 (near the Fori Imperiali).

Last Friday Budget Travel' s blog, "Affordable Europe," listed some parks in Italy that are perfect for walking (a favorite Italian pastime), lounging, picknicking and even watching theatrical and musical performances. Among the many Italian parks listed were two in Rome, the Villa Borghese , which the Modern Traveler has mentioned before, and the Villa Doria Pamphilj , which is located atop the Gianicolo Hill. The park itself is the largest within the city of Rome and contains a Renaissance palazzo surrounded by manicured gardens. Admission to the park is free (as is admission to the Borghese Gardens) but to enter the gallery in the palazzo there is a fee. For more parks in and around Rome, visit the Italian state website, www.parks.it.

Erin Bazos, a designer at the Hanger Design Group in New York City, was a long-time resident of Rome. The July issue of Elle Magazine (unfortunately not on-line) interviews her about her top spots in Rome for shopping, dining and living. Included in her recommendations are the Hotel Teatro Pace near Piazza Navona (pictured), avant garde clothing at Luna & L'altra (Piazza Pasquino 76 near Via del Governo Vecchio), and organic groceries and health foods at Albero del Pane (Via di. Santa Maria del Pianto, 19, in the Jewish Ghetto). Stay tuned for her restaurant recommendations.

As you journey around the city, you may notice a high brick wall in several areas, particularly if you are headed south by means of the Appian Way. This wall was begun in the 3rd century CE by the Emperor Aurelian. You can visit a museum dedicated to the study of these walls at the Porta San Sebastiano , the gate from which the Via Appia Antica leaves the city. The exhibit itself includes rooms which were once occupied by Ettore Muti, one of Mussolini's highest-ranking officials, and some mosaics from the Fascist period are still extant. With admission to the museum you can also access the ramparts of the walls. Here you will find a wonderful view of the city, the surrounding hills (Castelli Romani) and the Via Appia. It's a nice, cheap (3 Euros) diversion on your way to visit the catacombs at San Callisto or Santa Domitilla.

Near the Pantheon at 25 Via Pozzo delle Cornacchie is a modern Sicilian restaurant where celebrity chef Filippo La Mantia cooks in full view of the diners. Stars such as Scarlett Johansson and John Travolta have sampled the modern interpretations of the Sicilian traditions here. Sicilian cuisine is an interesting mix of tastes from Italy, North Africa and the Normans who conquered Sicily in the 11th century. Don't be surprised to see pasta and couscous on the same menu at Trattoria . And be sure to try granita if it's available-you will love this refreshing dessert.

Tablet Hotels is offering a great deal. Through August 3rd you can stay at the Orange Hotel , located between the Vatican and the Castel Sant'Angelo, for 139 Euros a night. The Orange Hotel is not at all traditional-it's hip, trendy, contemporary and cheap! The location can't be beat if you are intending to visit Vatican City. The best part? From the roofdeck you'll be able to enjoy cocktails and the sunset over the dome of St. Peter's.

Under the Basilica of Saints Giovanni and Paolo (John and Paul) are several ancient Roman dwellings purported to be the residences and final resting places of John and Paul , two officers of the court of the Emperor Constantine who were martyred under the rule of the Emperor Julian (361-363 CE). The residential complex is decorated in wall paintings from the 3rd century to 12th century and depict many themes from mythology and early Christian iconography. The site is located not far from the Circus Maximus and the Colosseum and can be visited every day except Tuesday and Wednesday. Once a week the complex is open at night for special tours. Be sure to visit the website to book these tours in advance .

There's nothing more disappointing than going out to eat in Italy and finding yourself surrounded by Americans! There's a reason this happens-they are all reading the same American guidebooks. The New York Times Magazine recently featured two Italian guidebooks that will bring you to the best restaurants in town. The menus at these restaurants will not be written in English, but you will certainly have an authentic experience. The two guidebooks highlighted are Osterie d'Italia , the guidebook published by Slow Food Italy, and Ristoranti d'Italia del Gambero Rosso. The Slow Food movement advocates for organic food, seasonal produce, and traditional cooking methods. The Gambero Rosso (Red Shrimp) Group is a publishing house in Rome akin to Gourmet , Wine Spectator , the Cooking Channel and Zagat all in one. You can register on-line to access all of their recommendations or order the 2008 Gambero Rosso guidebook through their website.